Edition: U.S. / Global

Wednesday, December 17, 2014

Food

Evan Sung for The New York Times

The Queens kimchi belt has got to be the least explored, discussed and celebrated of the city’s great ethnic-food districts. In and near Flushing, hundreds of restaurants serve classic Korean dishes.

Schmaltz Finds a New, Younger Audience

A new generation revives a fat shunned by their parents.

Eat

In the Beginning

Hors d’oeuvres that prepare the palate for the great work to come.

Challah You Bake Yourself Is Worth It

Golden and fragrant, this challah should be on the table for the first night of Hanukkah.

Hungry City

A Gateway to North Sumatra

Lily Tjia, the chef and owner of Sky Cafe in Elmhurst, Queens, specializes in northern Indonesian fare.

Parm Opens Upper West Side Location

A larger version of the red-sauce joint opens uptown, Sugar Couture comes to Williamsburg and more restaurant openings.

Counterfeit Porchetta? It’s the Real Deal

The Italian version uses a baby pig, but this Brooklyn recipe keeps crowds coming back. (Article plus video.)

Riedel Creates a New Champagne Glass

A California olive oil bar in Brooklyn, holiday capons and more food news.

Bond’s Martini Will Be Shaken With a Different Vodka

James Bond will be drinking a new brand of vodka in “Spectre,” the coming installment of the Bond thrillers.

Waters Warm, and Cod Catch Ebbs in Maine

The Gulf of Maine’s waters are warming — faster than almost any ocean waters on earth, scientists say — and fish are voting with their fins for cooler places to live.

A Seasonal Salad in Bold Strokes of Red

Persimmons and pomegranates lend flavor and color to this dish.

White Bordeaux, in the Flesh

Good white Bordeaux does not conform to many general expectations of what makes a wine interesting.

Opinion

Can Seafood Be Kosher and Sustainable?

Observant Jews who want to eat eco-friendly fish face a dilemma.

Eat

Time to Make the Doughnuts

To get truly great sinkers, you’re going to have to make them yourself.

Neighborhood Joint

Where Starbucks Meets Matcha: Ippodo Tea in Murray Hill

Ippodo Tea, a Japanese company based in Kyoto, serves green teas in Murray Hill, including matcha, which is gaining a wider following in the United States.

A Quiet Drink

A Star or Two, Sure, but a Just-Us Aura

The Mac Bar, on the top floor of the popular Broadway bistro Angus’, has a relaxed feel that is increasingly rare in Midtown Manhattan.

Time Inc. Sells Sunset Magazine’s Test Kitchens and Gardens

Time Inc. announced that it had sold Sunset magazine’s serene seven-acre campus in Menlo Park, Calif.

Restaurant Review: Dirty French on the Lower East Side

Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone treat the food of France with a hugely energizing lack of respect at Dirty French.

Ralph Lauren Creates His Clubhouse

Aglow with amber light and dense with equestrian paintings and trophies, the Polo Bar feels like a country club as staged by Steven Spielberg.

Gil Marks, Historian of Jewish Food and Culture, Dies at 62

Mr. Marks wrote five books that chronicled kosher menus through the centuries and examined the role of food in the establishment and growth of cultural traditions.

Vodka Comes In From the Cold

Vodka, once the whipping boy of all self-serious mixologists, has managed to get its foot back in the door at several bars in New York and beyond.

South African Restaurant Madiba Harlem Opens

The Fort Greene, Brooklyn, restaurant opens an outpost uptown and more restaurant news around the city.

Holiday Crullers, Mustard on Tap and a Chocolatier in Brooklyn

Holiday crullers, a mustard store, a tropical Yule log and a chocolatier in Brooklyn

Diverse Holiday Feasts From Five New York Families

From tamales to Persian chicken stew, from shrimp and grits to okonomi-latkes, five holiday feasts as multicultural as the New Yorkers who make them.

A Rum Punch That Raises the Thermostat

A hot punch, set aflame if you’d like, warms up winter parties. (Article plus video.)

The French Know How to Feed Party Guests

Smoked salmon and caviar show what a sophisticated holiday host you are.

Hungry City

A Convenient Snack, Elevated

At Hanamizuki, humble rice balls (onigiri or omusubi in Japanese) are slightly offbeat, as if sprung from a Haruki Murakami novel.

The Pour

Sip and Turn a Page

Eric Asimov reviews five of his favorite new wine books.

Eli’s Table Headlines Restaurant Openings

Eli Zabar has renovated and renamed Taste, the restaurant in his Third Avenue market, with many of the ingredients coming from his stores and rooftop farm.

Oh, Go Ahead, Lick the Pages

Leading bakers down sugar-dusted paths, five books surprise and delight. (Article plus video.)

Braise Your Way Through Winter

Tougher cuts, like beef short ribs, become savory and tender when cooked low and slow.

Online Sales for Girl Scout Cookies Are Approved

The Girl Scouts of the U.S.A. has approved “Digital Cookie,” a platform for scouts to sell and ship Thin Mints, Samoas and others to friends and relatives.

The Upshot

Americans Are Eating a Lot More Berries. Here’s Why.

Since 2000, blueberry and raspberry consumption is up by more than 400 percent. Farmers can now deliver more berries at more times of the year.

Cranberry Growers Search for Ways to Share Their Bounty

As cranberry farmers bring in record harvests and berry prices plummet, the industry is trying to recast the fruit outside its usual Thanksgiving milieu.

Cooking
Cookfight

A Christmas Quarrel

Kim Severson argues for holiday-cookie tradition. Julia Moskin bends the rules. (Article plus video.)

Broccoli and Potato Soup With Rich, Complex Flavors

Searing the broccoli florets on one side adds dimension to this soup. (Article plus video.)

City Kitchen

A Linzer Torte Fit for Thanksgiving

Pairing the European classic with cranberry filling hits the right note for the season.

Cookbooks

A Cookbook That Veers From the Usual Recipe

From the chef Gabrielle Hamilton, a 576-page cookbook as idiosyncratic as her restaurant, Prune.

A Good Appetite

Cornbread That Gets the Most Out of Butter

For a more tender, flavorful, crisp-edged cornbread, brown your butter and bake in a hot skillet. (Article plus video.)

The Trick to Great Pumpkin Pie

Most recipes call for canned pumpkin. But for something fresher, brighter and more complex tasting, consider squash instead. (Article plus video.)

Lamb Shanks Reveal a Softer, Subtler Side

A Persian spice mixture that includes cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom and rosebuds yields a complex, nuanced braise.

No Matter the Noodle, Flavors to Match

A stir-fry becomes a weeknight go-to dish when garlic, ginger, lime and peanuts get some Asian heat. (Article plus video.)

Restaurants and News
Elizabeth Lippman for The New York Times

At Marta, Roman dishes are repurposed as toppings for pizzas with very thin crusts.

Per Se to Join Restaurants Charging in Advance

A Chicago-born prepayment system for reservations will get a big test in New York City.

Hungry City: Fitzcarraldo in East Williamsburg, Brooklyn

At this restaurant in a corner of a 30,000-square-foot former warehouse, the food is Italian, mostly Ligurian, drawing from both the coast and the Alps of northern Italy.

Restaurant Review: Bar Bolonat in the West Village

The chef Einat Admony and the flavors of multiethnic Israel shine after the restaurant’s rough start.

Hungry City: Carnitas El Atoradero in the South Bronx

The restaurant could be just another tiny taqueria, but the decorations and ingredients speak to the chef’s Mexican heritage.

Torrisi Italian Specialties to Close

The popular Italian restaurant will be replaced by a more formal place.

Pier A Harbor House Opens Downtown

Peter Poulakakos has turned an imposing historic site into a restaurant with decks overlooking New York Harbor.

Marco’s Restaurant in Brooklyn Is Closing

The year-old sibling of Franny’s drew warm reviews but was “not profitable enough,” according to an owner.

Grace Gets Three Michelin Stars in Latest Chicago Guide

The restaurant, barely two years old, joins Alinea as Chicago three-star winners.

Newark Airport Lands Big-Name Chefs

Paul Liebrandt, Dale Talde and other acclaimed chefs are opening restaurants in a United terminal.

Drinks
Tina Fineberg for The New York Times

Rarity, price and changing tastes mean a Bordeaux classic isn’t as loved as it should be.

Rock and Rye Returns to the Mix

A blend of rye whiskey and rock candy syrup may prove enticing again.

French Brandy Gains a Foothold on American Cocktail Menus

American mixologists find ways to slip Cognac, Armagnac and Calvados into cocktails at affordable prices.

2014 Holiday Gift Guide

The best present ideas, selected by Times experts, to make shopping easy this season.

The Most Popular Recipes of 2014

The 20 recipes Cooking users saved to their recipe boxes most often this year.

Wine School

Your Next Lesson: Vouvray Sec

Good chenin blancs come from South Africa and California, but the Loire Valley is where the wine in its myriad styles reaches the heights.

How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

Featured Recipes
Potato Nik
Grapefruit Cooler
Frosted Cookies
Mushroom Lasagna
Cutout Sugar Cookies
Chocolate Pecan Pie
Rye Pecan Pie
NYTFood on Instagram

Follow us to find all the food that’s fit to cook, snap and eat.

Find your favorite recipes on our Pinterest boards.

Thanksgiving

Interactive Feature: The United States of Thanksgiving

We’ve scoured the nation for recipes that evoke each of the 50 states (and D.C. and Puerto Rico). These are our picks for the feast. Dig in, then tell us yours.

A New Cook in the Kitchen

Molly Yeh, a Chicago-born food blogger, teaches Sam Sifton how to make traditional Norwegian-American lefse. (Article plus video.)

A Script to Play the Role of Guest Star

Filling your plate and keeping your wineglass upright are only two of the ways to contribute when someone else is the Thanksgiving host.

Wines for Thanksgiving That Refresh the Palate

A versatile wine will go with all dishes; a nimble one will keep the palate awake.

Chart Your Seating

The Thanksgiving meal is America’s most holy secular ritual. Set the table as if for a sacrament.

How to Cook Thanksgiving Dinner: Frequently Asked Questions

Answers to common Thanksgiving cooking questions.

INTERACTIVE MAP: New York Health Department Restaurant Ratings Map

Interactive map of health violations at restaurants in New York

101 Places to Find Great Coffee in New York

The number of serious coffee shops in New York has exploded. Enter your address to find the shops closest to you.

Follow Dining

New York City Restaurant Search
Price
Critics' Picks