Edition: U.S. / Global

Monday, May 4, 2015

Food

Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

The brunch dish adds custard flecked with puréed braising greens and fresh herbs, and soft-centered baked eggs on the top.

Antipasto Is the Overture to Breezy Italian-Style Entertaining

Italian dining can’t begin without awakening the palate and staving off initial hunger pangs.

Your Next Lesson: Sonoma Chardonnay

It’s been scorned as too commercialized, but a new look — and new tastings — are in order.

At HanYang BunSik, Snacking Is Encouraged

In a corner of a 24-hour mart in Flushing, Queens, Koreans redefine the snack.

T Magazine

Ignacio Mattos Shares a Few of His Favorite Things

The chef behind Estela discusses influential food, books and art in anticipation of the James Beard Awards this Monday.

April Bloomfield’s ‘A Girl and Her Greens’ Delights in the Details

In her new cookbook, April Bloomfield is unabashedly fussy about each component, and that’s what makes her simple food so satisfying.

Giving Northern Cuisine Its Due

A group of chefs seeks to give fare from New England and Eastern Canada what Southern dishes have long had: a clear identity and plenty of fans.

Hey, Mr. Food Editor

Beer-Can Chicken and Other Mysteries of the Kitchen, Explained

Turn the gas on low when you’re making sauce, my friend.

Restaurant Review: Minton’s in Harlem

At Minton’s, a jazz supper club, a band is onstage and on the table, Lowcountry cuisine, with its imprint of West African and Caribbean cooking.

Eat

The Mysteries of Manhattan’s Curry Row

Learning to make a Bangladeshi chicken korma from one of East Sixth Street’s original proprietors.

Shaken and Stirred

An Ex-Air Force Flier Finds His Passion Behind the Bar at Campbell Apartment

Paris DuRante was counting on a career in the Air Force, but fate had other plans.

Enchiladas, Light Yet Satisfying

Filled with a mix of blanched seasoned chard and succulent diced chayote and quickly fried so the tortillas remain light and intact.

Danny Meyer Moves In to New Whitney Museum

The visitor is on display at the downtown location of Mr. Meyer’s restaurant Untitled, through floor-to-ceiling glass walls, and the seasonal menu strives for lightness.

At Dominique Ansel, Desserts Worth a Short Wait

The offerings at the pastry chef’s new place are prepared in a minute or two; a cookbook from Bergdorf’s; a tasting of rosé; and more.

Agnes Gund’s Most Treasured Cooking Tool

Passed down from her grandmother, a sumptuous silver tea set holds a place of honor for the philanthropist Agnes Gund.

White Bread That’s Beyond the Ordinary

One of the most forgiving, straightforward breads to make at home is just begging to be made into a PB&J or a BLT. (Article plus video.)

Bud Light Withdraws Slogan After It Draws Ire Online

A phrase appearing on some labels was seen as tone-deaf to the dangers of excessive alcohol use and particularly to alcohol’s role in some cases of date rape.

First Words

Why ‘Natural’ Doesn’t Mean Anything Anymore

Whether we’re talking about food, politics or morality, we can’t agree on a definition.

Salt Cod With an Iberian Point of View

For a stew that’s like comfort food in Spain and Portugal, add chickpeas for heartiness and clams to ensure a seal of approval.

A Hands-Off Approach to Manzanilla Sherry

A younger generation has begun to appreciate sherry since producers started buying small amounts of particularly compelling lots and issuing them with minimal processing.

Memories of Chinatowns Gone By

A homage to the working-class coffee houses from the neighborhood where the chef grew up.

Tequila Is Getting Company: Sotol, Bacanora and Raicilla

There’s more to agave than tequila and mezcal. Sotol, bacanora and raicilla are increasingly showing up in New York bars and restaurants, and not just Mexican ones.

Chipotle to Stop Using Genetically Altered Ingredients

Starting Monday, nothing prepared by Chipotle, which has more than 1,800 restaurants, will contain any genetically modified ingredients.

Well

Ask Well: Do Microwaves Degrade Food Nutrients?

Heating your food in a microwave can have varying effects on the nutritional content.

Pass the Pork Belly, and the Joint

At a multicourse dinner party in San Francisco, marijuana is paired like wine. But you’ll need a doctor’s note.

Jeremiah Tower Leaves Tavern on the Green

The chef is the second to exit in the year since the landmark restaurant reopened.

A Cooking Club That’s 124 Years Old and Counting

For 124 years, the Thursday Afternoon Cooking Club in Wichita, Kan., has made the city a better place to eat.

Conquering the Fear of Cooking Fish

Even in an apartment, chefs say, you can prepare fish successfully without lingering odors. (Article plus video.)

Op-Ed | Pamela Druckerman

Eat Up. You’ll Be Happier.

The French discourage picky eaters, as a threat to the social bond.

Restaurant Review: Santina in the Meatpacking District

Almost all the food at Santina pulses with the bright, refreshing flavors we crave in hot weather and, it turns out, in other months, too.

Op-Doc

‘A Sustainable Chef’

This short documentary explains why one world-class chef overhauled his menu to emphasize sustainable ingredients.

Answer Found to Mystery of Missing Bourbon, Kentucky Officials Say

A grand jury charged nine people with engaging in organized crime, accusing them of being part of a syndicate that dealt in stolen bourbon and anabolic steroids.

New Orleans Bars Issue Last Call for Smoking

Just after midnight, it became illegal to smoke in the establishments, prompting a mix of cheers, lamentations and resigned shrugs.

George Mendes’s Lupulo Is a Homage to His Heritage

The chef will serve food, beer and wine from Portugal, and an enormous bar for drinking and dining fills the center of the high-ceilinged room.

A New Way to Look at Endive

The French serve seared endive as a side, but the dish can be the main event for lunch, with a nice slice of blue cheese or Roquefort alongside.

Tartine Expansion Plans Include New York

The San Francisco bakery has merged with Blue Bottle Coffee and will open in Tokyo and Los Angeles this year. The company is scouting locations for a New York bakery in 2016.

T Magazine

Sweet Spring Confections, Courtesy of Chic French Collaborations

In Paris, a new season of limited-edition treats.

Chelsea Miller’s Most Treasured Cooking Tool

For the actress Chelsea Miller, knifemaking is no longer a hobby, but her trade.

Chipotle Posts Another Quarter of Billion-Dollar Sales

The restaurant chain said its profits jumped 47.6 percent in the first quarter as it continued its explosive growth.

Joseph Phelps Dies at 87; Brought Innovation to California Wines

Mr. Phelps brought a restless, entrepreneurial spirit to wine country that was evolving from a sleepy agricultural community into a modern engine of fine-wine production

Flower-Shaped Pasta to Herald Spring

Ravioli that’s suitable for the season; vermouths that find herbal notes; a chocolate shop in Brooklyn; and more.

Springtime Sheet-Pan Chicken

A sheet-pan supper, usually hearty winter fare, pares down for spring.

Puzzling Death of Chicago’s Whirlwind Chef, Homaro Cantu

Questions linger in Chicago after the suicide of the inventive and ambitious star chef.

Kraft to Drop Preservatives From Its Macaroni and Cheese

Kraft Foods on Monday said it was revamping its macaroni-and-cheese meal to remove preservatives and synthetic colors.

Mapo Tofu Goes Vegetarian

This meatless version of a wildly popular menu item in many Chinese restaurants satisfies on every level.

Drink

Everything’s Coming Up Daisies

Spirits, fruit and a splash of fizz make for a drink as refreshing as its name.

At Casa Del Chef in Woodside, Queens, the Goals Are Lofty

The chef is from Ecuador, but the influence of his time spent working at Blue Hill at Stone Barns is evident here.

The Sandwich Issue

Build a Better Sandwich

New York chefs offer secrets for creating midday marvels.

A Field Guide to the American Sandwich

A celebration of the sandwich, and an attempt to create a taxonomy for its many diverse forms.

Restaurant Review: Meat Hook Sandwich in Williamsburg, Brooklyn

Big letters and bold flavors at Meat Hook Sandwich in Brooklyn.

There’s No Mayonnaise Like My Mayonnaise

Are you a Hellmann’s fan or devoted to Duke’s? Brands have their die-hard followers.

Don’t Mess With My Bacon, Egg and Cheese

The ubiquitous breakfast sandwich that powers New York.

A Roast Beef Sandwich the Way the Deli Makes It

Instead of tossing some leftovers on bread, slice a boneless top loin roast for a lunch that works cold or hot. (Article plus video.)

The Right Wine to Drink With a Sandwich

Someone may ask, “Why would you drink wine with a sandwich?” I say, “Why on earth wouldn’t you?”

A Tuna Sandwich With a Touch of Italy

There’s nothing wrong with adding mayonnaise the American way, but with olive oil, you’ll get something a little more memorable.

The Ice Cream Sandwich Comes of Age

A quest to find how far the ice cream sandwich has come in a century, from its humble pushcart-vendor beginnings in the early 1900s.

This Sandwich Is Worth the Space in Your Carry-On

Especially on long flights, choose fillings that taste great but aren’t pungent, and a bread that won’t become soggy and fall apart.

Spreadable Sausage to Give Your Sandwich a Kick

American-made sausage from Iowa with an Italian touch; a knife to work with cold butter; and more.

Eat

Breakfast Gets New Life at Jessica Koslow’s Sqirl

In a gritty corner of Los Angeles, a young chef is putting bright twists on old classics.

New York Botanical Garden Adds a Restaurant

A full-service restaurant in the New York Botanical Garden keeps garden hours, closing at 6 p.m.

Surfacing

Gourmands Transform a Granada Neighborhood

After wandering through the sprawling Alhambra complex, save your energy and appetite for the Realejo area.

Ratha Chaupoly’s Most Treasured Cooking Tool

The chef, an owner of Num Pang, a Cambodian sandwich-shop chain, cooks under a portrait of his mother’s watchful eyes.

Hillary Clinton, Just an Unrecognized Burrito Bowl Fan at Chipotle

Mrs. Clinton was not traveling incognito — two aides and some Secret Service agents were with her — but patrons and staff in Maumee, Ohio, took no notice.

Rodale Broadens Its Organic Vision in Rebranded Magazine

James Oseland, a former longtime editor at Saveur, is introducing Organic Life, a rebranding of Organic Gardening, for Rodale, which is making several moves to stay relevant in the shifting media landscape.

Vegetables à la Grecque Shows Its Versatility

Marinated vegetables in this French recipe are primed to wake up your tastes buds.

Anne-Claude Leflaive, Vintner in Burgundy, Dies at 59

Under Ms. Leflaive’s leadership, the reputation of her wine estate, Domaine Leflaive, soared, as Burgundy evolved from a connoisseur’s passion to a worldwide luxury good.

Restaurant Reviews: Limani and Estiatorio Milos in Midtown

The two restaurants offer a double dose of Greek chic.

At Chevalier, Charles Masson Greets Change

After leaving La Grenouille last year because of a family dispute, Mr. Masson is the director of a far larger operation in the Baccarat Hotel a block away.

Two Recipes From Tracy K. Smith’s Kitchen

The Pulitzer Prize-winning poet shares her poundcake and Alabama lemon “cheese” cake recipes.

Tracy K. Smith’s Most Treasured Cooking Tool

The Pulitzer Prize-winning poet’s KitchenAid mixer is a bond across time.

Eat

Open Sesame

Long considered a food of desperation, seeds can unlock deep recesses of flavor in even the simplest dishes.

Homemade Pizza, Easier and Faster

Two allies in the kitchen — your food processor and freezer — can make pizza a regular weeknight event.

Marco Pierre White’s ‘White Heat’: A Game Changer, Revisited

The British chef’s vastly influential first cookbook is reissued 25 years later.

Taking the Mystery Out of Cardoons

Cut, chop and parboil, and the vegetable’s bitterness is all but gone.

Beer and Pasta From the Same Ingredients

A Pennsylvania beer repurposes its brewing leftovers; French Laundry to reopen with temporary kitchen; Charlotte Neuville joins Industry City; and more.

Tasca Chino Merges Spanish and Chinese

The chef, Alex Ureña, gives equal time to both cuisines in dishes like patatas bravas with Sichuan peppercorn aioli, and chicken and chorizo dumplings.

A Spring Chicken Soup With Miso

A noodle soup inspired by an evening in Japan.

An Easy Salmon Recipe for Weeknight Meals

Anchovy butter amps up the flavor in this quick fish dish. (Article plus video.)

Breaking Free of Steakhouse Wine List Tradition

The trend of more innovative wine lists continues, as older restaurants adapt to wider consumer tastes.

At SpaHa Soul in Spanish Harlem, Camaraderie on a Plate

A tiny restaurant in East Harlem delivers conviviality and an unstylized menu that is not concerned with borders.

Grace Notes

A Regular Worries That the Palm’s Face-Lift Could Cause Wrinkles

Herbert E. Nass, a longtime customer at the Palm in Manhattan, fears that his caricature, which hangs near his favorite booth, may be painted over or obliterated during a renovation.

Neighborhood Joint

An Old-School Butcher Shop Endures in SoHo

A fixture for decades, Pino’s Prime Meats is the last culinary shop on its block of Sullivan Street.

Eat

The Enduring Appeal of Roasted Chicken Provençal

A simple and classic dish from the designer Steven Stolman.

At Roberta’s, Pizza and a Broken Partnership

A fight over money and expansion plans is breaking up the group that created the pizzeria-turned-garden-and-gastro-commune in Bushwick, Brooklyn.

Small Plates Grow Up

The shrunken-portions revolution has won, as top chefs enter the fray and start shaping the new rules of dining.

‘Root to Leaf,’ a Field Guide to Vegetables

Steven Satterfield’s book offers both philosophy and instruction, with recipes that reward, again and again, the minimal treatment of the very best ingredients.

A Stew That Makes the Most of Spring Greens

Incorporate spring’s green market offerings, from light beans to bright jalapeño, for a vegetarian tagine.

Ignacio Mattos’s Most Treasured Cooking Tool

The chef at Estela is passionate about his Microplane, which was born to cut wood, not zest oranges.

A Burrito Filled to the Brim Downtown

At El Vez Burrito, there are more than 1,200 combinations to pick from; ergonomic tongs; Parisian caramels; and more.

At the Chef Dan Barber’s Pop-Up, WastED, Bruised and Misshapen Bits Are Dinner

For wastED, a pop-up restaurant in Greenwich Village, Dan Barber and his crew went on a crosstown hunt for scraps to transform into tasty dishes, and they mostly succeeded.

Drink Up ... or Else

At Masha & the Bear in East Williamsburg, Brooklyn, Russian hospitality is on full display.

Restaurant Review: Little Park in TriBeCa

Andrew Carmellini and Min Kong create a fresh, natural and intuitive menu at Little Park.

Interactive Graphic: A Tour of Le District

An Eataly-type market for French food is set to open in the financial district.

A Simple Recipe for Pasta With Mussels

A vibrant linguine dish with a tomato sauce that gets added depth and intensity from the mussel broth.

Maira Kalman’s Most Treasured Cooking Tool

The artist’s midcentury cookie press, which belonged to her mother, will be viewable in an installation in TriBeCa starting April 10.

Cooking
Karsten Moran for The New York Times

A simple dish goes heavy on the spice, with a pleasant, woodsy heat.

Layers of Spring

With spring approaching, here’s a pasta offering with broccoli rabe that is emblematic of the season.

Craig Claiborne’s Classic Billi Bi

“A consummately good cream of mussels soup,” in the words of the former New York Times food editor. (Article plus video.)

Haitian Griot Is a Postcard From the Caribbean

The classic Haitian dish of pork cubes simmered in chiles and citrus, then fried, can be hard to forget.

A Spur-of-the-Moment Risotto

You probably have the ingredients for this winter warmer in your pantry now.

The Slow Cooker, Redeemed

The slow cooker need not produce mush. But many recipes call for too much cooking time.

Meatloaf That Conquers the Mundane

Polpettone, or Italian meatloaf, is always well seasoned, made with care and served with gusto.

A Chicken’s Tour of the Mediterranean

Braised thighs with lemon and olives can be tweaked for various tastes from the region.

A Moroccan Stew With Spice and Sweetness

A recipe with chickpeas and chard is satisfying and light at the same time, as a vegetarian main course or as a side dish to roasted meats or fish. (Article plus video.)

The Kitchen-Counter Chocolatiers

A small but growing cohort of people is dedicated to making chocolate at home, a pursuit rooted in the proliferation of American-style, bean-to-bar chocolate.

A Sugar Rush, Not Crush

The pastry chef Larissa Raphael’s confection is no harder to make than any other layer cake, but the precision of the ingredients makes it shine.

Profiteroles With a Prize Inside

Pastry puffs encasing chocolate ice cream can charm even an avowed nonchocoholic.

The Lively Look of Green Chorizo

Chiles, herbs and vinegar add punch to this specialty from the Toluca region of Mexico.

Parmigiana Dishes to Warm Weary Souls

When carefully and lovingly cooked with excellent ingredients, parmigiana is a fantastic dish, one worth learning how to make just right. (Article plus video.)

Restaurants and News
Sasha Maslov for The New York Times

With fewer gimmicks, Eleven Madison Park still pulls out all the stops with food and service.

The Plot Thickens in a Sequel

Holding out hope that Jeremiah Tower, formerly of Chez Panisse, can rescue Tavern on the Green.

Restaurant Review: Bowery Meat Company in the East Village

Bowery Meat Company serves plenty of meat but insists it’s not a steakhouse.

Sharing Their World With You

At Le Marécage in the East Village, the husband-and-wife team draws on French backgrounds from West Africa and the Caribbean.

Straight From Filipino Streets

House of Inasal delivers straightforward Filipino comfort food in a stretch of Woodside, Queens, that has earned the nickname Little Manila.

Little Sprout Grows Up

The restaurant Dirt Candy has more space and a renewed mission: to create delicious vegetarian food and change attitudes, too.

Drinks
Mother of Pearl will occupy the same space as the former Gin Palace.
Ravi Derossi

Mother of Pearl will occupy the same space as the former Gin Palace.

The owners are starting over in their East Village location with “tiki-influenced” drinks.

Exploring California’s Bold Pinot Noir

A status report on the progress of wines from a relatively new region.

Pitorro, Anyone? Craft Distilleries and Breweries Take Hold in South Bronx

The Port Morris Distillery, which makes pitorro, or “Puerto Rican moonshine,” is part of a growing industry of artisanal beer and spirits in the borough.

Cocktail Table Service Thinks Big

The bar industry is becoming more inventive with what it calls “large format” drinks that serve two to six customers and cost $45 to $150.

At Corison Winery, the Focus on Napa Cabernet Never Blurs

Through a quarter-century of turning out consistent, elegant cabernets, Cathy Corison has resisted joining other Napa producers whose wines are becoming more alcoholic and sweeter.

Nordic Food Is a Doorway for Scandinavian Spirits

The New Nordic cuisine opens the way for Baska Snaps, Bjork Birch Liqueur and other Scandinavian-style drinks.

How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

Recipe Collections
Cinco de Mayo

From margaritas to fish tacos to flan, 41 festive recipes for your May 5 celebration.

Mother’s Day

More than 90 brunch, dinner, dessert and cocktail ideas to celebrate Mom.

Featured Recipes
Boston Brown Bread
Prietoni
Matador Norteño
Quick Pizza Dough
Poundcake
Cacio e Pepe
Roast Lamb
Rainbow Carrot Stir-Fry
Grains and Beans
Billi Bi
Whole Grain Granola
Egg Drop Soup
Stovetop-Braised Carrots and Parsnips
Haitian Pork Griot
Boss Colada
Coconut Layer Cake
Vegetable Fried Rice
Texas-Style Chili
Chicken Parmesan
Veal Parmesan
Sicilian Beef Ragout
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Starve a Landfill

Restaurants, home cooks and now a growing number of cities are embracing the belief that efficiency, composting and wasting less in the kitchen are just smart economics.

Lawmakers Aim to Protect Farm Animals in U.S. Research

A new bill responds to accounts of mistreatment of farm animals used in federal experiments to help the meat industry.

U.S. Research Lab Lets Livestock Suffer in Quest for Profit

In the past 50 years, meat has gotten less fatty and easier to chew — thanks in part to the U.S. Meat Animal Research Center. But the achievement has come at a steep cost to the lab’s animals.

Stricter Oversight Ordered for Animal Research at Nebraska Center

Federal officials said that they found no abuse, but that scrutiny is lacking.

The Best of 2014
Restaurants
The 10 Best New Restaurants of 2014

From Bâtard to Russ & Daughters Cafe, the restaurants that brought a fresh perspective to the dining scene this year.

Hungry City
Off the Beaten Path, and Well Worth a Visit

The favorites among the corners, counters and places to eat (or slurp or gulp) standing up that Ligaya Mishan reviewed in the past year.

The Year’s Most Popular Recipes

The 20 recipes Cooking users saved to their recipe boxes most often this year.

The Best of 2014

Highlights from the year in food, fashion and style, film, theater and dance, art, music, television, video games and books, as chosen by the editors of The New York Times.

The Top 10 Videos of the Year

The top videos of the year range from one man’s incredible tale of surviving an ISIS massacre to a charming — and very kid-friendly — dinner experiment.

The United States of Thanksgiving

We’ve scoured the nation for recipes that evoke each of the 50 states (and D.C. and Puerto Rico). These are our picks for the feast. Dig in, then tell us yours.

INTERACTIVE MAP: New York Health Department Restaurant Ratings Map

Interactive map of health violations at restaurants in New York

101 Places to Find Great Coffee in New York

The number of serious coffee shops in New York has exploded. Enter your address to find the shops closest to you.

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